Using Differin Gel for acne is a rite of passage for those of us who identify as having oily skin and deal with constant breakouts. Dermatologists love it. It’s in every acne-fighting guide. I love this gel so much that I slather it all over my face for supersmooth, clear skin. And its incredible results are thanks to this ingredient: adapalene.
If tretinoin is the gold standard of retinoids, then adapalene is its fun sibling that everyone loves. You get the same benefits without the harshness associated with tretinoin. Plus, you don’t have to secure a doctor’s sign-off to get your hands on it. Access to adapalene is all yours with a simple click of “add to cart.” But why do experts love this ingredient so much?
“It is one of those ingredients where the science is much more interesting than the trend,” says Sonia Badreshia, MD, FAAD, board-certified dermatologist at Elite MD. “It has decades of dermatologic use behind it and it works by normalising cell turnover, so we are preventing clogged pores rather than simply chasing individual breakouts.”
What is adapalene?
Adapalene is a retinoid usually used to treat acne. According to Badreshia, it helps skin cell turnover and clears pores to prevent the buildup that causes breakouts. Adapalene does not need to be converted by the skin before becoming active, but Badreshia says it is better tolerated and gentler on the skin than something like tretinoin. Marisa Garshick, MD, board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology, agrees and adds that it is more photostable than other retinoids, which just means it won’t be less stable under UV exposure and you can use it during the day.
Adaferin Gel
Epiduo Gel
The benefits
One of the biggest benefits adapalene has is its anti-inflammatory properties, says dermatologist Hadley King, MD, and it has a reduced risk of irritation. King also says it can work quickly.
Badreshia adds that it can help treat all types of acne, such as blackheads, whiteheads and inflammatory pimples, while also improving uneven texture and post-acne dark marks and scars. But the biggest benefit of adapalene, she says, is prevention of these pesky breakouts. “It treats the entire acne-prone area, including developing clogged pores you cannot see yet,” she says. “Making it valuable for maintaining clearer skin.”
The downsides
Adapalene has the same downsides that you’d find with any retinoid. Garshick says dryness, redness, peeling, burning or irritation may occur when you’re first starting to use it. And though it is gentler than retinoids such as tretinoin, she adds that it is best to use caution if you have eczema, rosacea or sensitive skin.
