In the vast world of supplements, nothing piques interest quite like collagen. Whether it’s liquid, pills or powder, collagen supplements are everywhere and they promise to do a lot. But is it legit?
Made of hydrolysed collagen (AKA collagen peptides) that has been broken down into smaller amino acids and sometimes mixed with other essential nutrients and minerals like vitamin C and biotin, collagen supplements promise smooth, hydrated and firm skin, as well as many other supposed health benefits. So it’s no surprise everyone is currently obsessed.
“Social media, influencer culture and increased awareness of preventing ageing have all contributed to their appeal,” says Hope Mitchell, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Mitchell Dermatology. “They offer a simple, noninvasive addition to daily routines, which makes them especially attractive to consumers looking for accessible wellness solutions.”
“People want to feel like they are doing something internal to help with anti-ageing, beyond just topicals,” agrees Angela Lamb, director of the Westside Mount Sinai Dermatology Faculty Practice and associate professor of dermatology at the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai.
But the rule of thumb with anything skin- and health-related is that if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is. And collagen supplements, according to dermatologists, are proving to be the rule rather than the exception.
The strongest evidence of the benefits of collagen supplements
Collagen supplements are said to help with a lot of things: hair and nail growth, bone and muscle support, digestion issues: the list feels endless. But New York City board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, says that evidence supporting these claims is limited and needs further study. The strongest evidence that we currently have, she says, is for skin health.
This is the case because the benefits of collagen to skin health and longevity in general are widely known. If these supplements signal increased collagen production, they could provide the same known skin benefits. But, medical professionals warn, there’s an important caveat: “It is important to realise that collagen supplements do not directly deposit the ingested collagen into the skin,” explains Helen He, director of lasers and cosmetic surgery and dermatology assistant professor at the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai. “Instead, these peptides and amino acids may stimulate the body’s signalling pathways to increase collagen production, ultimately leading to increased collagen in multiple tissues, including the skin.”
“The jury is still out on whether collagen will preferentially concentrate in the skin when we consume it,” adds Dr King. “If it does, then that helps our skin by directly increasing collagen. If it doesn’t, then potentially it is helping by providing amino acid building blocks for our body to produce collagen.”
Dr King also points to studies showing that collagen supplements can help support joints as we age. More research shows that taking these supplements may reduce exercise-related discomfort and may even help strengthen your joints’ connective tissue if you’re a super-active person.
Collagen supplements and results
But even with the studies conducted, experts still say you should temper your expectations; the research is simply too mixed to be definitive, even with all the evidence for skin health. “Your body doesn’t know that when you consume collagen orally, you want it specifically directed to the skin,” explains board-certified dermatologist Blair Murphy-Rose. “While these amino acids are some of the building blocks needed to produce collagen, they are also used throughout the body for countless other essential functions. You cannot assume that eating collagen will directly translate into new collagen formed in the skin.”
Dr Lamb adds: “The question is always how much is absorbed versus just processed.”
Dr Mitchell also emphasises that it’s only possible if you’re consistently taking them. And even then results are “modest rather than dramatic,” she says.
Whom collagen supplements are best for
It may sound paradoxical, but Dr He says that collagen supplements are best suited for healthy individuals who are already taking proper care of their skin with a consistent skin-care regimen, regular SPF use and utilising aesthetic treatments to target their specific skin concerns. “[These people] understand that collagen supplements are adjunctive and support their current routine, but it is not a replacement,” she says. “They have realistic expectations.”
These supplements are also more beneficial if you don’t have any significant chronic medical problems and maintain a healthy diet. She warns that collagen supplements may cause digestive issues such as nausea and bloating and that many consumers find the taste (especially in powder form) off-putting. Another thing to take note of is that these supplements are often paired with biotin, which she says can interfere with thyroid and cardiac stress markers and are usually derived from animal sources like cows, pigs or fish (which may not be suitable for those who don’t want to consume animal products or are vegan).
Are collagen supplements essential?
All experts agree that collagen supplements should never be seen as a replacement for skincare products backed by tons of research with proven results (think sunscreens or anything made with retinol or antioxidants). They can be a nice add-on to your daily routine and generally aren’t harmful, but experts also say they aren’t necessary if you’re already maintaining a healthy lifestyle to care for your skin and body. “These supplements are not essential,” Dr King says. “People eating adequate protein and maintaining overall nutritional health may already be getting the amino acids needed for collagen production.”
Dr Mitchell agrees and says to research the brand. Look for well-formulated options that have been thoroughly vetted.
“There is a combination of both science and marketing when it comes to collagen supplements,” she says. “While there is legitimate research supporting certain benefits, many studies are small or industry funded and the claims made in marketing often exceed what the evidence can firmly support. It’s important to approach these products with realistic expectations.”
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