Glass skin may have a gimmicky reputation, but as someone who has been a skincare buff since I was 16, I’m still determined to achieve it. So when the internet told me that combining azelaic acid and retinol could give me glass-like skin, I had to give it a go.
I altered my usual CTSM routine, replacing my toner and serums with azelaic acid and retinol. After cleansing my face with a gentle cleanser, I applied a 10% azelaic acid booster, followed by either medical-grade 0.025% tretinoin or a 0.1% retinal shot. Since both are potent actives, I knew I had to pay extra attention to protecting my skin barrier, so I followed the combination with a thick layer of barrier repair cream.
Within a week, I began noticing a difference. My marks appeared clearer and my skin had taken on the reflective, glass-like finish I had been chasing. But what exactly was happening?
What happens when you pair azelaic acid with a retinoid?
“Azelaic acid is a natural dicarboxylic acid that acts as a versatile multitasker. It helps fight acne by killing bacteria and disrupting their internal balance. This also helps calm redness by suppressing inflammatory signals,” explains Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta, founder and medical director of ISAAC Luxe. “Additionally, its mild exfoliating action helps keep pores clear without stripping the skin.”
Retinoids, meanwhile, are a family of chemical compounds derived from vitamin A that can help speed up cell turnover and support collagen production. Pairing azelaic acid with tretinoin or another retinoid therefore brings together two potent actives with complementary benefits. “Using retinoids as prescribed over months can gradually unclog pores, smooth rough texture and soften fine lines,” adds Dr Mittal Gupta.
“This combination works well only if you are moisturising well afterwards,” says Dr Geeta Mehra Fazalbhoy, a dermatologist board-certified in aesthetic medicine and founder of Skin & You Clinic. “If your barrier is maintained while using both these strong exfoliants, they can work greatly together even at pea-sized amounts, as they are both highly potent actives.”
How to pair them
Pairing azelaic acid with a retinoid can be tricky because both are highly active ingredients.
“It’s best to use azelaic acid in the morning and retinoids in the evening,” suggests Dr Mittal Gupta. “If you are a beginner, start with a 10% azelaic acid serum or cream-gel. If targeting severe acne or rosacea, consult a doctor to use a 15% gel or 20% cream. And pair it with a gentle, fragrance-free, lightweight retinol formula.”
“If the strength of the azelaic acid serum and retinoid is lower, it’s okay to use them together followed by a heavy moisturiser. But it would be best to cycle them,” adds Dr Mehra Fazalbhoy. “Use azelaic acid three times a week and a retinoid three times a week if it is high in concentration.”
When initially using retinol, you may experience flaking, temporary dryness or mild irritation as your skin adapts. Pairing two actives is also unlikely to work well if your skin barrier is already compromised. “Azelaic acid serum can also cause dryness, redness, itching and peeling, so if you are doing this as a combination, start with a pea-sized amount of azelaic acid and a rice-sized amount of retinol, followed by a thick moisturiser so the barrier is completely maintained,” says Dr Mehra Fazalbhoy.
She also recommends trying short-contact therapy at first, which means using the combination for four hours rather than overnight before removing the products from the skin. Trying this for a week can help test how your skin tolerates the pairing. “While the result would take longer, this would prevent irritation, dryness and redness.”
