It’s the most wonderful time of the year – yes, it’s Copenhagen Fashion Week. The Spring Summer 27 season has kicked off overnight and the Danes have showed out in true from – textural, colourful, layered sartorial delights, ready to hit mood boards in time for an Australian spring.
Of course, we’ve spent years documenting and speaking to all the up-and-coming CPHFW designers you should know about, and they’re all back for the SS27 season – from the design duo at Anne Sofie Madsen to zero-waste pioneers Stem. If you want your CPHFW highlights and show reviews in a nutshell, scroll on…
Nicklas Skovgaard
The brand’s Collection 13 show took its cues from the iconic girl groups of the 1960s, channelling the era in all its gingham-clad, poodle-skirted, tight-sweatered glory. Rendered in a soft pastel palette, the collection opened with The Skovgaardettes, a gingham-trench-clad trio who made their entrance in the back of a vintage 1960s Ford Mustang convertible. From there, each model arrived by vintage car, stepping out one by one to begin her walk down the runway.
Collina Strada
The New York–based fashion label made its CPHFW debut in this season’s global guest slot. Hillary Taymour showed her Pre-Spring 27 collection, titled Delirium in Bloom, waterside just before sunset. Models walked, smattered in tinsel and glitter, in garments that twisted, gathered, layered and were sewn together in patchwork style. Shoes were little more than toe-less sequinned socks.
Baum Und Pferdgarten
One of a Copenhagen’s most known fashion houses, Baum Und Pferdgarten’s SS27 collection, AFTER THE REHEARSAL, was an homage of sorts to the thrown-together looks a dance might wear post-rehearsal. Shoes tied and slung over shoulders, duffle bags over arms, jeans tucked into leg warmers and tights layered under sheer skirts and voluminous dresses.
The Garment
Founded in 2020, The Garment has pioneered Scandinavian minimalism through the lens of its creative director Sophia Roe and designer Charlotte Eskildsen. The brand’s SS27 show, titled The Tourist, was held inside the grandiose Thorvaldsens Museum in Copenhagen, watched over by the Danish and Icelandic Neoclassical sculptors pieces. The collection itself felt borrowed from worldly locales – berets and tenches from the Parisians, button-ups and sweaters from the English, mandarin collars and button-frog closures from China (known as pankou or panhuaniu). Yet the result remained unmistakably Scandinavian. There was an ease that ran through every look, from shoulder straps left to drape freely to voluminous sleeves that caught the air with each step, lending the collection a relaxed, effortless rhythm.
Herskind
Birgitte Herskind and her daughter, Andrea Hess, closed their SS27 runway to Madonna’s Danceteria, following a collection that felt as though it was gradually undressing itself – beginning with sharp, military-inspired tailoring before peeling away to undergarments and, finally, clouds of feathers. The show opened with sharply cut suits and structured jackets, before giving way to crisp button-downs tucked into matching cotton boxer shorts, and silk slip skirts, sheer enough to reveal the briefs beneath. From there, the collection softened further, giving way to plumes of feathers, sculptural brooches and, finally, a tiered feathered skirt styled in typical Scandi fashion with a oversized white tee.
By Malene Birger
Malene Birger’s eponymous label has been one to watch for a few years now, but their runway show was certainly a hint at their newfound status as one of Copenhagen’s best. Closed by supermodel Mona Tougaard and showcasing the designer’s minimalist prowess, the collection, set against the evening light, was a sophisticated turn of slack yet romantic silhouettes in a pared-back palette.
Taus
The Copenhagen-based ready-to-wear and demi-couture studio founded by Freyja Taus and Juho Lehiö presented its Spring Summer 2027 collection as part of the NEWTALENT One to Watch showcase. Each look “explores Taus classic in lighter registers”, shifting the label’s signature upcycled and emotionally charged garments from darker expressions towards something lighter.
Skall Studio
Sisters Julie and Marie Skall presented their SS27 collection, La Piscine, as a meditation on “the beauty of summer”. Despite a brief summer shower, the garden presentation felt perfectly in step with the collection’s relaxed spirit: bohemian, louche and effortlessly romantic. The loose cotton separates and voluminous silhouettes that have become synonymous with the brand were joined by subtle references to English country life, from basketry details (on arms and dangling as silver belt chains) to echoes of English landed gentry. There was an unmistakably Austen-esque quality to both the setting and the collection, making the timing feel especially apt ahead of the forthcoming Pride and Prejudice and Sense and Sensibility adaptations.
Anne Sofie Madsen
Madsen and Clante’s SS27 collection, The New Desire, was all about”the idea of imagining new possibilities”, according their show notes. The runway – housed in a stark white room as part of the CPHFW NEWTALENT show – was accompanied by a live performance from Danish artist Michala Petri on flute. The clothes themselves felt like a softer expression of the typically bold Danish style, and a more hopeful return after its January show Ghostly Matters, which imagined a lost future.
Stem
Sarah Brunnhuber’s innovative, zero-waste production brand only joined the CPHFW NEWTALENT roster last year, but has already become a highlight. The brand’s signature weaving techniques enmesh pattern and textile to create a textural dream – all made using 100% natural and biodegradable fibres, including recycled cotton and Tencel Lyocell. For this collection, the brand partnered with fellow Danish fashion brand Ganni to create upcycled runway looks using deadstock fabrics.
OpéraSPORT
OpéraSPORT kicked things off with a sunshine-filled garden runway at the historic Carl Jacobsen House in Copenhagen. Designers Awa Malina Stelter and Stephanie Gundelach titled the collection – quite aptly – Growth, and saw models in slip dresses, layers of cascading frills and capri denim make their way around a gravel runway, adorned in floral brooches, necklaces and even a salacious baby’s breath headpiece.
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Feature image from Collina Strada Pre-Spring 27 show via GoRunway.
