Even though I’m diligent about my skincare, I often find myself wondering, “Why is my skin so dry even when I moisturise?” Sure, in the middle of winter, my skin can be a bit more dry and sensitive. But I find that dryness is occurring more and more year-round and as it turns out, there could be a number of causes.
“Dry skin often means the skin barrier has been broken and water evaporates too quickly,” explains Jessica Wu, MD, a Beverly Hills dermatologist and author of Feed Your Face. The causes could be internal or external, but a key factor is genetics, according to Michelle Henry, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and CEO of Skin & Aesthetic Surgery of Manhattan.
Dr Henry also points out that there’s a difference between dry skin and dehydrated skin. “Dry skin is a lack of oil and everyone has a genetic tendency toward how much oil they naturally produce,” she explains. “If you’ve been dry your entire life, you likely just don’t make a lot of oil. Certain products can also affect oil production or disrupt the skin barrier. As we age, our skin naturally gets drier.” Dehydrated skin, on the other hand, is lacking water and is a more temporary state, rather than a full-on skin type.
In any case, dryness can happen to anyone. Ahead, find out nine reasons why your skin may still be dry even after you moisturise, plus the best moisturisers to help your skin stay hydrated, longer.
Your moisturiser is too light
The best answer is often the simplest. “Sometimes the formula is too light,” says Wu. “For example, a hyaluronic acid gel can attract water, but dry skin often needs lipids to seal in water.” Look for products with a mix of humectants, like hyaluronic acid and glycerin; emollients like ceramides and squalane; and occlusives like petroleum jelly. And in general, says Wu, “For truly dry skin, a cream in a jar usually works better than a thin lotion in a tube or pump.”
You’re not applying enough moisturiser
Twice a day is the norm, but everyone’s skin varies. “If you know you’re a dry-skinned person, applying more than once a day may be better,” says Henry. And although you want to keep the amount you apply to a thin layer, it should still be enough to do the job. “If your skin feels tight again 10 minutes later, the formula or the amount isn’t enough,” says Wu.
You’re applying at the wrong time
Make sure you’re applying in the morning, before you apply sunscreen and makeup, and before bed, “which is when skin loses more water and therefore needs moisturiser most,” says Wu. However, the derm stresses that it’s the timing that matters more than the time of day: “I advise patients to apply moisturiser within a few minutes of cleansing, while skin is still slightly damp.”
Other products are stripping your skin
A harsh cleanser or too many serums could be undoing the work your moisturiser is putting in. “If you’re using a foaming cleanser, acids, peel pads and a nightly retinoid, all those products may be breaking the skin barrier and not allowing the moisturiser to work,” says Wu. Henry says that cleansing too aggressively can contribute to barrier disruption as well.
Your water is too hot
Hot showers or baths can strip the skin of its natural moisture. “Make sure you avoid very hot, long showers,” says Henry. “Pat dry and leave a bit of moisture on the skin before applying moisturiser to optimise hydration post-shower.”
