Some ingredients are straightforward—take hyaluronic acid, which draws in water and keeps it in the skin. Or vitamin C, which delivers unmatched antioxidant protection against environmental stressors. Neurocosmetics, on the other hand, might be as complex as skincare gets. That’s because they encompass a host of different ingredients. For the unfamiliar, neurocosmetics are skincare products that are “designed to interact with the communication pathways between the skin and the nervous system,” says Azideh Shirazi, a board-certified dermatologist in La Jolla, California.
If that sounds complicated, that’s because it is. The skin isn’t just a passive barrier that accepts humectants, peptides and other ingredients and keeps out external aggressors like pollutants and bacteria. “It contains nerve endings, neurotransmitters, neuropeptides and receptors that constantly communicate with the brain and immune system,” explains Annette Reszko, a board-certified dermatologist in New York.
Neurocosmetics—which can include neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides, neurosensory-calming ingredients and certain adaptogens that may help support the skin’s stress response—go above and beyond the everyday targets of hydration, pigmentation and collagen production, according to Reszko. Instead, they seem to “influence the skin’s communication network to help reduce visible signs of stress, calm sensitivity, improve comfort and in some cases, support healthy ageing,” she says.
That said, it’s still an evolving area of research. While there’s some evidence that neurocosmetics can provide meaningful benefits, especially when it comes to soothing sensitive skin and improving skin quality, “I would caution against claims that they can ‘hack’ stress or dramatically reverse ageing,” says Shirazi. “As a dermatologist, I see them as promising adjuncts rather than miracle products.” With that in mind, these are the neurocosmetics that experts find the most compelling.
Neuropeptides
Neuropeptides, short for neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides, are the neurocosmetics with the most scientific backing to anchor their efficacy. These ingredients, which include acetyl hexapeptide-8 (also known as argireline or the “Botox in a bottle” peptide), “may help reduce the release of neurotransmitters involved in muscle contraction and soften the appearance of expression lines,” says Shirazi. In interfering with these neurotransmitters, they can act similarly to neuromodulator injections, although on a much, much smaller scale.
Argireline in particular “was developed to target the same general pathway involved in muscle contraction, although its effects are far more subtle,” says Reszko. As a result, she notes, it can be a good option for those who aren’t ready for injectables, those who want to extend the lifespan of their neuromodulators or people who just want a topical approach. Paula’s Choice Boost Pro-Collagen Multi-peptide Booster calls on a blend of pro-collagen peptides and amino acids to improve skin texture, soften the look of fine lines and boost skin’s firmness.
Paula’s Choice Boost Pro-Collagen Multi-Peptide Booster
