For a long time, my relationship with my nails was one of consistency and a sign of being well-groomed. They were neat and occasionally swiped with a classic polish – and that felt enough. But in the last few years, a manicure evolved from a simple grooming task into a high-stakes game with different levels; and the level you picked decided how ‘current’ you are.
Watching the kaleidoscopic array of chrome finishes and architectural shapes on everyone around me was undeniably alluring. Seduced by the promise of a month-long, chip-free masterpiece, I finally dove into the world of gel enhancements. But it didn’t take long for that to spiral into a cautionary tale of a decimated nail barrier. Six weeks in and beneath the high-shine facade, my nails were gasping for air. When the product finally came off, I was met with the reality of the structural damage that constant extensions leave in their wake.
What repeated gel and extensions are really doing to your nails
“In the short term, nails often start looking dull or slightly chalky, especially after repeated gel removals with acetone,” explains Dr Mikki Singh, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Bodycraft Clinics. “There’s usually some degree of peeling or thinning because the top layers of the nail get stripped away during the process.”
It’s a seductive trap. Your nails feel weak, so you cover them with more gel to “strengthen” them, further thinning the plate. Dr Singh notes that the damage isn’t just from the chemicals, but the entire process: the buffing that erodes the plate and the aggressive cuticle trimming that destroys our natural protective seal. “In some cases, especially with extensions, I see fungal or bacterial infections, when there’s slight lifting and moisture gets trapped underneath.”
According to Swati Gupta, director and head of creative development at Bodycraft Salon, while the shift toward constant maintenance was driven by a desire for convenience, a new realisation is taking over as more and more people deal with fragile nails. Clients are no longer just asking for the latest colour; they are asking about recovery. At the same time, they have also gravitated towards the simplistic confidence in a short, buffed nail that doesn’t require a two-hour salon appointment every three weeks. But as I learned, ‘going natural’ is a marathon, not a sprint.
“Nails don’t heal overnight,” warns Dr Singh. “Recovery depends on growth and fingernails typically take about four to six months to grow out completely.” When we stop getting our nails done, the nail plate finally rehydrates as natural oils can penetrate the surface again and thickness improves as healthy nails replace the damaged portions.
What to do when your nails need a break
If you’re ready to break up with your nail tech, Ms Gupta suggests a transition period designed to restore rather than just replace. “The first step is keeping nails trimmed short and filed smoothly, as this reduces breakage while they’re still fragile,” she says.
