The itch for a hair makeover most often than not starts with a celebrity’s glossy espresso brunette, a softly blended caramel balayage or that one shade of copper currently making its way across your feed. But recreate the same colour exactly and it may not produce the same effect.
The most flattering hair colours for every face shape and skin tone are ones that consider your complexion, facial proportions, hair condition and how much maintenance you are realistically prepared to undertake.
Why doesn’t the same hair colour suit everyone?
Two people can request the same colour formula and leave the salon with noticeably different results. According to Audrey D’Souza, national creative director of hair, Lakmé Salon, this is because the starting point is never identical.
According to her, natural pigment affects how the hair lifts, while porosity determines how evenly it absorbs colour. Previous bleaching, colouring or chemical treatments can also alter the result. Even when the technical outcome is similar, a colour may appear warmer, cooler, brighter or more muted depending on the person’s skin tone and eye colour.
“A professional colour consultation helps assess these variables and customise the formula and technique to achieve the closest possible result while maintaining the health and integrity of the hair,” says D’Souza.
In other words, the photograph you bring to the salon should be treated as inspiration and not expectation.
How should you choose a hair colour for your skin tone?
Begin with your skin’s undertone rather than whether your complexion is fair, medium or deep. People across every skin depth can have cool, warm, neutral or olive undertones and it is this underlying tone that determines whether a colour brightens the face or leaves it looking washed out.
“For cool skin tones, ash, pearl, beige and cool chocolate shades work beautifully,” says Shahid Dilshad Pasha, master trainer manager at Davines India. These shades can complement pink, red or bluish undertones without introducing excessive warmth. She adds that warmer complexions generally pair well with golden browns, honey blondes, caramel, chestnut and copper. The warmth in the hair reflects the golden or yellow undertones in the skin, creating a more cohesive effect. Neutral skin tones tend to be the most versatile. “They can carry both warm and cool colours with ease,” says Pasha. A neutral brunette, beige blonde or a balanced combination of warm and cool highlights can all work well.
Which hair colours are most flattering for olive skin?
Olive skin often has a green, golden or slightly grey undertone, which can make selecting colour more complicated. It may lean warm, neutral or cool, so there is no single formula that suits every olive complexion.
Pasha recommends “rich brunettes, caramel, honey, golden blondes and warm coppers”, which can introduce warmth and prevent the skin from appearing muted. He advises being cautious with shades that are excessively ashy, as they may make some olive complexions look dull.
This does not mean cool colour is entirely off the table. A beige brunette, softly balanced ash brown or cool-toned highlight may still work if it is adjusted to the individual complexion. The difference often lies in how much warmth the colourist leaves in the formula.
Does face shape affect which hair colour is most flattering?
Your face shape does not need to dictate your colour, but it can influence where lighter and darker sections are placed. Much like contouring with make-up, colour placement can create the impression of light, shadow, width or length.
On round faces, keeping some depth around the sides while introducing brightness through the crown or lower lengths can encourage the eye to travel vertically. Very broad, bright sections placed directly beside the cheeks may have the opposite effect.
