Jack Sprat may eat no fat, but I wonder how he’d weigh-in on boneless, skinless chicken thighs.
Unlike the rich, sinewy flesh of the drumstick or wing — of which I doubt he’d approve — boneless, skinless thighs provide unbroken expanses of smooth, texturally-unchallenging meat. While not quite as lean as chicken breasts, thighs are nearly as delicate, and just as easy to eat with a knife and fork — no gnawing or fingers required.
In our house, boneless thighs are a staple because everyone, from my Jack Sprat of a child to my fat-and-gristle-loving self, can agree on their deliciousness. They’re also weeknight friendly, cooking more quickly than their bone-in counterparts. And, unlike persnickety boneless breast meat, thighs are not prone to drying out.
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You can season boneless thighs with practically any spices, herbs and aromatics. Just be generous; their dark meat can take loads of flavour (and don’t stint on the salt).
Here, I slathered them with a mix of grated garlic, thyme — you could also use oregano — and red pepper flakes before roasting. Feel free to embellish, throwing in a pinch or two of your favourite spice, a dash of a beloved condiment, more herbs; anything you think might taste good probably will.
Chicken is tossed with lemon, herbs and aromatics, and refrigerated for up to 12 hours before roasting, in New York, 2021. Delicate boneless, skinless thighs cook quickly, aren’t prone to drying out and pair beautifully with a garlicky cucumber yoghurt. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews. Prop Stylist: Christina Lane. (Johnny Miller/The New York Times) Credit: JOHNNY MILLER/NYT
I’ve also scattered some lemon wedges into the roasting pan. As the lemons cook, darkening at the edges, their acids mellow, becoming softer and sweeter. When squeezed over the chicken just before serving, the roasted lemons’ juices lend a more rounded, gentle bite compared with fresh citrus.
I wanted to mute some of the lemon’s intense sourness, so I could add another bright, tangy element to the plate: a dollop of garlicky, cucumber-flecked yoghurt.
Cucumber and yoghurt is a classic pairing across many cultures, from Indian raita to Persian mast-o khiar to Greek tzatziki and beyond. For this iteration, it’s important to use strained yoghurt, such as Greek yoghurt, labneh or Icelandic skyr. The grated cucumber inevitably releases liquid as it sits, so the thicker the yoghurt is to start out with, the creamier and less runny the final sauce will be.
Full-fat yoghurt will give you the richest result. But low-fat or non-fat yoghurt would also work perfectly well — and perhaps even better when Jack Sprat comes to dine.
Strained yogurt for the roasted chicken thighs with garlicky cucumber yoghurt recipe in New York, 2021. Delicate boneless, skinless thighs cook quickly, aren’t prone to drying out and pair beautifully with a garlicky cucumber yoghurt. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews. Prop Stylist: Christina Lane. (Johnny Miller/The New York Times) Credit: JOHNNY MILLER/NYT
Recipe: Roasted Chicken Thighs With Garlicky Cucumber Yogurt
1-1.2kg boneless, skinless chicken thighs
salt and freshly-ground black pepper
4 garlic cloves, finely grated, minced or passed through a press
1 tbsp finely-chopped fresh thyme or oregano leaves, or 1 tsp dried thyme or oregano
large pinch of red-pepper or chilli flakes, plus more for serving
3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
1 lemon, cut lengthwise into thin wedges
½ cup plain Greek or other strained, thick yoghurt (or substitute labneh or sour cream)
½ cup grated seedless cucumber, such as Persian or hothouse cucumbers (see Tip)
2 tbsp chopped fresh mint (or use parsley or coriander), for serving
Step 1 Heat oven to 220C. Season chicken generously with the salt and pepper. In a large bowl, combine 3 of the grated garlic cloves, thyme or oregano, red-pepper or chilli flakes and olive oil. Add chicken and lemon wedges, and toss until well coated. (If you want to work ahead, you can refrigerate the chicken for up to 12 hours before roasting.)
Step 2 Arrange chicken and lemons on a baking tray in a single layer. Drizzle with a little more oil and roast until chicken is cooked through, 27 to 35 minutes. If you’d like more colour on your chicken, run the pan under the grill for 1 to 2 minutes until chicken is lightly charred in places.
Step 3 As the chicken roasts, stir together yoghurt, grated cucumber and remaining minced garlic clove in a small bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and keep in refrigerator until ready to serve.
Step 4 To serve, squeeze roasted lemon wedges all over chicken, and sprinkle with mint and more red-pepper or chilli flakes, if you like. Serve chicken accompanied by cucumber-yoghurt sauce and a drizzle of olive oil over everything.
Tip: If you are starting with seeded cucumbers, halve them lengthwise, then use a spoon to scrape out the seeds before grating.
Which wine to drink with this savoury, tangy dish? What do you like? The options are many so long as you heed the usual cautions: Avoid oaky or tannic wines. That’s especially so, as either quality will clash with the creamy yoghurt sauce. As is often the case, lively acidity will do wonders. My first choice might be a good, dry riesling, whether from Germany, Austria or Alsace. A chenin blanc from the Loire Valley would also be a good option, as would a godello from western Spain or an assyrtiko from Greece. The same cautions hold true for reds: I’d consider cabernet francs from the Loire intended for early drinking. Likewise an Irouleguy from French Basque Country, a Ribeira Sacra from Galicia in Spain or even an inexpensive Bordeaux.
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