When it comes to skincare, a sign that something has gone haywire is usually when a product stops doing what it is supposed to do and starts doing what it isn’t supposed to. Perhaps like a lip balm leaving your lips drier than ever, a cleanser leaving your face stripped or a moisturiser burning or stinging on application.
And while the fault can lie in the formulation or the fact that it is simply not suiting your skin, these reactions are not always an issue with the product itself. They are in fact messengers, trying to communicate something happening on a deeper level.
What does it mean when your moisturiser starts to sting?
“If a moisturiser stings, it often means the skin barrier is irritated or compromised, allowing ingredients to penetrate more easily and triggering nerve endings,” says Dr Shailya Gupta, MBBS, MD (Dermatology). A healthy skin barrier acts like a wall, keeping irritants out and moisture in. But when the wall develops cracks, even the gentlest products can suddenly feel uncomfortable.
Certain ingredients that felt previously fine can suddenly become irritating. “Common ingredients are: retinols, urea (especially at higher concentrations), lactic acid and other AHAs, propylene glycol, fragrances and essential oils, even in small amounts, vitamin-C formulations (particularly acidic forms), niacinamide and chemical sunscreen filters may cause some discomfort on compromised skin,” adds Dr Mikki Singh, founder and medical director at Bodycraft Clinic.
These ingredients are not inherently bad. But with a skin barrier that has weakened, even beneficial ingredients can decide to betray you.
Should a moisturiser ever sting?
A moisturiser should feel comfortable on your skin. Its main purpose is to hydrate, soothe and protect your skin, while strengthening your skin’s natural protective barrier against external aggressors. “A brief, mild tingling sensation can occasionally occur when a moisturiser is applied to very dry, freshly exfoliated, recently shaved or irritated skin,” adds Dr Singh. “Persistent discomfort should not be considered normal.”
So, ideally your moisturiser should never sting you.
What causes a weakened skin barrier?
But how does a skin barrier get compromised, in the first place? It’s often an accumulation of small habits repeated daily, enough for them to significantly affect the protective outer layer of your skin. “Some of the most common habits that can damage the skin barrier include over-exfoliating, using too many active ingredients together, over-cleansing, using harsh face washes and constantly switching skincare products,” explains Dr Gupta. “In many cases, a simpler routine focused on cleansing, moisturising and sun protection is all the skin needs.”
Skip harsh physical exfoliants and actives or limit their usage (unless otherwise medically advised). Avoiding washing your skin with high temperatures, opting for lukewarm water instead. Ensuring appropriate and consistent sun protection. Together, these actions will help to preserve essential lipids in your skin and keep your skin barrier intact.
