Antiques, cultural memorabilia, watches that tick in borrowed time, vinyl records that smell of the past, bangles in their multicoloured glory, mirrors, perfume bottles, and pieces of vintage magic; chor bazaars (literally translated to ‘thieves’ markets’ but mean flea markets) of India are like a poetry of lost and found items, each waiting to make its way into its new home.
And these time-tested bazaarshave documented decades of social change; here’s a glimpse at some of the most famous ones.
1. Chandni Chowk, Delhi
My early attraction to Chandni Chowk in Delhi borrows heavily from my binge sessions of Bollywood movies. Romanticised by films, this market, one of Delhi’s oldest and busiest, dates back to the 17th century, to the reign of Mughal emperor Shah Jahan.
Chandni Chowk is known for its local food stalls and jewellery shopping. Photograph (Unsplash)
The magic of this market lies in its narrow bylanes lined with spices, textiles, jewellery, traditional shops, wholesale traders, and small family-run businesses that have lived here for generations.
2. Chor Bazaar, Mumbai
Having gotten its name from a mispronunciation of shor bazaar (noisy market), the Chor Bazaar of Mumbai is located in South Bombay, on Mutton Street near Bhendi Bazaar.
While it’s known for its treasure trove of vintage cameras, typewriters, and old furniture, you may also want to explore the neighbouring Bhendi Bazaar, whose history dates back to the late 19th century, since when it’s been the pulse of South Bombay.
The bazaar is iconic for its food stalls that, while evergreen, come alive around the holy month of Ramadan with their iftar(meal that’s eaten after the day-long fast is broken) fare.
A spot to check out is the legendary Taj Icecream outlet, which has been here since 1887, when Valilji Jalaji, a gentleman from Kutch, Gujarat, started it as a fruit shop. The ice creams, which continue to be hand-churned to achieve the creamy texture, are unequivocally loved by celebrities and locals alike.
3. Floating Market, Srinagar
A colourful spectacle in the form of painted wooden boats will greet you if you stop by the Dal Lake in Srinagar at the crack of dawn. The floating market here is a unique and historic trading space reflecting Kashmir’s traditions and way of life.
The Floating Market in Srinagar is one of the most unique of its kind. Photograph (L: Akash Pratap Singh, R: Abhijeet Sawant)
Among the items are fresh vegetables, fruits, flowers, and local produce. But even aside from produce, you’ll find plenty of opportunities to buy shawls, clothes, saffron, and trade items echoing the artistry of Kashmir’s legacy artisanal families.
4. Burrabazar, Kolkata
There’s a rhythmic energy at Burrabazar, a market in Kolkata that dates back to the 18th century. It checks the boxes on utility items, delicious street food, a beautiful amalgamation of spices, fruits, souvenirs, and curios.
While originally a small textile market in 1738, Burrabazar has become a bustling centre for trade, offering a glimpse into Kolkata’s way of life and evolution across the ages.
We hear the 180-year-old Kandoi Sweets and Snacks serves some amazing theplas(Indian flatbread) with mirchi achar (chilli pickle), along withgulaab paak (traditional Indian sweet featuring rose petals), while Jorasanko in the market area is known for its repository of spices.
5. Laad Bazaar, Hyderabad
You don’t need lights in Laad Bazaar, located near the historic Charminar in Hyderabad. The glint of jhumkas (bell-shaped dangling earrings), bangles, and mirror-work jewellery is enough to light up this centuries-old market. A must-buy are the traditional lac bangles.
The lac bangles are famous at Laad Bazaar. Photograph: (Rama Madhu Gopal Rao)
An interesting story about the bazaar is that it was built by the Qutub Shahis, who founded the city of Hyderabad in the 1590s when Sultan Mohammad Quli Qutub Shah set it up to provide a bridal trousseau for his daughter’s wedding.
In its current incarnation, the market knits together different kinds of items from jewellery and bridal wear to perfumes and traditional accessories, reflecting Hyderabad’s rich cultural heritage and its long-standing tradition of craftsmanship and trade.
