As someone with oily and acne-prone skin, double cleansing has been one of those small changes that has made a surprisingly big difference to my skincare routine. We’ve all been there: standing in front of the mirror, aggressively rubbing a makeup wipe over our lashes to get rid of waterproof mascara or going over the same patch several times to remove a stubborn long wear lipstick. The wipes are often heavily scented and contain alcohol, yet somehow we convince ourselves that a little extra rubbing is worth it if it means getting every last trace of makeup off.
Followed by that is face wash. But sometimes, even after all that cleansing, there’s still a faint layer of makeup or SPF left behind. For years, I thought this was simply what cleansing looked like. Remove your makeup, wash your face and move on. But the idea behind double cleansing is a little more layered. Rather than asking one cleanser to remove everything from makeup and sunscreen to sweat and dirt, the method uses two different cleansers to target different types of buildup.
Dr Santhosi SV, dermatologist at Neothera, explains: “Double cleansing is based on the concept that ‘like dissolves like’”. The products we use on our skin, including sunscreen and makeup, contain a mix of oil soluble and water soluble substances. “This is why cleansing first with an oil-based cleanser followed by a water-based one ensures maximum cleansing,” she adds.
The result is a clean base for the rest of your nighttime skincare routine, without having to rely on aggressive scrubbing to get there.
How does double cleansing actually work?
Dr Geeta Mehra Fazalbhoy, founder of Skin & You Clinic, explains that “it works on a simple principle: different cleansers help remove different types of residue from the skin.”
The first step, usually an oil-based cleanser or cleansing balm, helps dissolve oil soluble impurities such as makeup, sunscreen, excess sebum and long wear products. This is particularly useful because many of these products are formulated to be water resistant.
“The second, water-based cleanser helps remove sweat, dirt and any remaining residue, leaving the skin clean without relying on one cleanser to do everything,” says Dr Fazalbhoy. “The benefit is therefore not simply washing the face twice, but using two complementary steps.”
How to actually double cleanse?
Start by applying an oil-based balm, liquid oil or micellar water to dry skin. If you are acne-prone, micellar water or a well formulated cleansing oil can be a better option than a heavier balm. Massage the first cleanser gently into the skin for 30 to 60 seconds to break down makeup, sunscreen and debris, then rinse it off.
Follow with a water-based gel or cream cleanser on damp skin. Massage it in for another 30 to 60 seconds to remove any remaining dirt, sweat and residue before rinsing thoroughly. Your skin should feel clean but not tight or stripped.
Micellar water: can it be the first step of a double cleanse?
If the thought of putting oil on already oily skin makes you nervous, micellar water can be an alternative first step, particularly if you have oily or sensitive skin.
“Micellar water can replace an oil cleanser for people with oily or sensitive skin,” explains Dr Santhosi. It uses mild, non-ionic surfactants dispersed in highly purified water, making it a lighter alternative to an oil cleanser. These surfactants form micelles, tiny spherical structures that trap oil and sebum in their centres.
“When finally washed off with water, it aids gentle but effective cleansing without pore occlusion or skin barrier impairment,” she adds.
Micellar water can therefore be particularly useful for removing makeup, sunscreen and surface level buildup before following with a gentle water-based cleanser. The important part is not to rely on the micellar water alone if you are doing a true double cleanse. Follow it with your second cleanser and avoid rubbing the skin repeatedly to remove stubborn makeup.
When should you double cleanse?
Double cleansing is best reserved for the night, particularly on days when you have worn sunscreen, makeup or heavy, waterproof cosmetics. If you have spent the day indoors without sunscreen or makeup and there’s little to no product buildup, a single gentle cleanse may be all you need.
“Double cleansing is not essential every night for everyone,” says Dr Santhosi. There’s no need to double cleanse in the morning either. A gentle wash is usually enough to remove sweat and dead skin cells that have accumulated overnight.
Double cleansing for different skin types
“Double cleansing can be suitable for different skin types, but it should not be treated as a universal skincare rule,” explains Dr Geeta.
The method can be particularly useful for people who regularly wear makeup, water resistant sunscreen or have significant oil and product buildup at the end of the day. But the type of cleanser and how often you use it should depend on your skin.
Dry or sensitive skin
Those with dry or sensitive skin should be more selective. Cleansing twice with unsuitable or harsh products can strip the skin’s natural lipids and compromise the barrier, leading to dryness, tightness and irritation.
Choose gentle, hydrating cleansers and reserve double cleansing for days when there is significant product buildup. Sensitive skin benefits from an especially simple approach, with fragrance-free formulas, minimal rubbing and lukewarm rather than very hot water.
Oily and acne-prone skin
For oily and acne-prone skin, double cleansing can help remove excess sebum, sunscreen and makeup, but it is not an acne treatment in itself. Over cleansing can actually aggravate irritation and make breakouts worse.
The first step does not necessarily have to be an oil cleanser. While poorly formulated cleansing oils can trigger breakouts, a well formulated, non-ionic emulsifying cleansing oil should not clog pores.
Oily and acne-prone skin is naturally deficient in linoleic acid, an essential fatty acid, which can make sebum thicker and stickier, explains Dr Santhosi. Cleansing oils rich in linoleic acid, such as sunflower or grapeseed oil or lightweight esters such as caprylic/capric triglycerides, can help remove sebum plugs. In contrast, oils high in oleic acid, such as safflower or avocado oil, as well as highly comedogenic ingredients such as isopropyl myristate, can trigger breakouts.
Combination skin
For combination skin, the focus should be on maintaining balance rather than over cleansing the oilier T-zone. An evening double cleanse can be useful after sunscreen or makeup, but the second cleanser should remain gentle rather than stripping.
Can double cleansing damage your skin barrier?
Like most things in skincare, more is not necessarily better. Double cleansing can damage the skin barrier if it is done too frequently, with unsuitable products or with aggressive physical scrubbing.
Dr Santhosi explains that the outermost layer of the skin, called the stratum corneum, works like a brick and mortar wall. The bricks are skin cells called keratinocytes, while the mortar is a lipid layer made up of ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids in a specific ratio.
If you cleanse too often or use harsh products, you can strip away these essential protective lipids. This can compromise the skin barrier, increase water loss and leave the skin more vulnerable to irritation.
Are you over cleansing your skin?
There’s a difference between double cleansing and simply cleansing too much. Double cleansing uses two complementary products to remove different types of buildup. Over cleansing happens when you wash your face too frequently or use harsh products that strip away the skin’s natural oils.
Dr Santhosi says there are several signs to look out for. If your skin feels “squeaky clean” and tight after cleansing, it could be a sign of dehydration. Redness and flaking can signal a compromised skin barrier, while products that you previously tolerated may suddenly sting or burn when applied.
Paradoxical oiliness can also occur. When the skin loses too much water, the oil glands can begin working overtime, leaving the surface feeling even greasier. Acne flares can also occur when a compromised skin barrier makes the skin more susceptible to irritation.
Double cleansing, therefore, is best treated as a targeted step for removing stubborn, water resistant products such as makeup and sunscreen rather than an everyday rule for everyone.
What should you do after double cleansing?
What you do after cleansing matters too. Avoid rubbing your face with a towel. Instead, gently pat the skin dry with a clean, soft microfibre cloth or a single use facial tissue.
“Follow your cleanse with a moisturiser containing ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids. Calming, niacinamide containing products can also help support the skin after cleansing,” suggests Dr Santhosi.
