When an unusual PR package recently landed on my doorstep, my mother looked at me sceptically. It was a urea-infused bodycare kit. And honestly, a little scepticism was valid.
What is urea?
Urea has a notorious reputation, due to its unfortunate association with urine (or manure). Things you wouldn’t want near your vanity, as effective as they may be. Despite its reputation, urea is neither unfamiliar, nor harsh on the body. “Urea is part of the naturally occurring NMF (natural moisturising factor, made up of substances that your skin naturally produces to stay hydrated) of the body. Usually, when skin is compromised or dehydrated, urea levels drop, leading to dryness and barrier dysfunction. Topical urea essentially replenishes what’s been lost,” says Dr Manasi Shirolikar, consultant dermatologist and founder of online consulting brand drmanasiskin. Rest assured, commercial urea is manufactured in a laboratory, far from a lavatory and the misconceptions attached to its name. So you can heave that sigh of relief now.
The resistance towards urea is somewhat understandable, but to overlook its dual benefits would be our own folly. “At low concentrations (about 2–10%), it does that humectant job well, similar to glycerin. At higher concentrations (10% and above) urea begins to soften and loosen the bonds between dead skin cells,” says Dr Jushya Bhatia Sarin, dermatologist at Sarin Skin Solutions. So, in simple terms, it hydrates and regulates the skin barrier, while gently exfoliating.
How urea works
I relented to the products staring at me, begging to be given a chance and decided to brace myself and try them. I slathered the body lotion post-shower on my limbs after drying off. Much to my surprise, my skin did feel more nourished than usual within the first three days of use. In around two weeks of consistent use (paired with a glycolic acid toner) there was a significant reduction in the texture of my strawberry legs. “Urea is particularly beneficial for xerosis (very dry skin), keratosis pilaris, callused feet, psoriasis and certain forms of eczema where scaling is prominent. It is also helpful for patients experiencing dryness from retinoids or environmental stressors because it improves skin smoothness without feeling heavy,” says Dr Anurpiya Goel, dermatologist and medical director at Berkowits Hair and Skin Clinic.
Urea is reliable and acts as a great reminder that efficacy doesn’t always come with fanfare. However, it does not come without its fair share of warnings. So here are a few clinician tips that aren’t always on the labels, as per Dr Sarin: “Start lower if you have sensitive skin; a patch test on a small area first would be wise. Always combine urea with ceramides or occlusives for enhanced barrier effects. Lastly, avoid very high concentrations on thin or inflamed skin unless under professional guidance.”
While my mother continues to have her doubts about it, I hope reading this eases the anxiety around urea for the rest of us.
