Rosy cheeks are the makeup trend of the moment thanks to Ngozi Esther Edeme, whose bold blush technique is taking the internet by storm. More commonly known as Painted by Esther, the 28-year-old works primarily with Black women, and has been revolutionizing the way we think about makeup for dark skin tones.
“I love glamour and looking ultra feminine, super girly or ethereal,” Edeme said in an interview with Essence. “That’s my goal when I do my makeup, so when people say ‘it’s too much’ or ‘you can’t really wear that outside,’ my response is always: Why?”
The “ethereal” look in question refers to her blush look, which is Edeme’s signature touch. The look consists of bright pink blush placed high on the cheekbones and under the eyes. The Barbie-esque effect is reaching far, with many people on the internet working to recreate the artist’s technique.
In addition to blush, Edeme’s focus falls on using a shimmery highlight along high points of the face, creating a “button nose” and stand-out eyes. “Blush is my bread and butter,” Edeme told The Cut. “I love Barbie or Bratz — whimsical doll-like makeup.”
According to Elle, Edeme focuses on working with Black women in order to rectify the neglect of darker skin tones by popular beauty trends. She specifically cites the “clean girl” aesthetic, which consists of minimalistic makeup like light coverage foundation and glossy lips, as a trend that excludes Black women.
In an interview with The Cut, Edeme explained that everyone in the beauty industry knows how to glam light complexions, but “didn’t feel like enough people could do brown skin and dark skin well, so that’s always been my focus.”
Born in Nigeria, Edeme became enthralled by the beauty industry from a young age, inspired by her mother’s daily makeup routines. Her upbringing nurtured a love for art, which she immersed herself in completely.
Edeme moved to the United Kingdom at eight years old, where she went on to study art in college. She would invite girls from campus to her dorm room to do their makeup, then post the finished product on social media, where her content regularly went viral.
In 2018, Edeme’s career hit a turning point when she achieved a huge first: doing glam for Tiffany Calver, the British DJ who opened for Drake’s “Assassination Vacation” tour. Edeme went on the tour as Calver’s makeup artist, and subsequently her career took off. As her reach grew, glitter and bright colors became a trademark on Painted by Esther’s clients.
Since her rise in popularity, Edeme has worked with celebrities such as Viola Davis, Tyla, Naomi Campbell and music sensations like SZA and Doechii.
In an interview with Essence, Edeme said she feels it’s important to create a relaxing, comfortable space while her clients get their makeup done, which is why she plays music and has plenty of food available in the glam room. “Glam sessions are a safe space, like therapy. …It’s a time to talk, relax and get pretty, so I always want to allow them space to do that.”
Edeme further attributes her success to her makeup role models she looked up to when she was starting out. She went to a masterclass with Scott Barnes where she learned to underpaint, and studied Kevyn Aucoin’s contour and Pat McGrath’s shimmer. McGrath was even the inspiration for her brow-bone highlight trick, according to The Cut.
Edeme’s determination and dedication to her craft signal a bright future, both for Painted by Esther and for the future of makeup for a diverse audience — especially Black women.
Kaitlyn Saperstein can be reached at [email protected].
