I have always loved the ritual of getting ready to go out. In my late teens, I would layer on heavy black eyeliner, graphite eye shadow and clumpy mascara – I’d seldom wash my face when I got home, either. My habits have changed, but I still love the concept of a smoky nightclub eye, even more so when it’s messy and lived-in. Kate Moss meets BRAT meets the Olsen twins in the 2010s.
The concept of messy makeup – smudged eyes especially – was also very prevalent over the course of fashion week. Gregoris Pyrpylis used matte, muted shades of plum, grey and blue on the eyes at Hermès against a 90s beige lip (filled free hand with lip liner only). Prada was another favourite. The entire show was themed around deconstruction and ‘undressing’ – 15 models walked, partially removing their outfit with every appearance. Makeup artist Lucia Pieroni rimmed the eyes with black kohl (presumably the Prada one). It was messy and a little bit grimy – there was nothing clean, sharp or precise about it. Saint Laurent is another messy makeup north star, partial to an 80s glamour bedroom eye. Pat McGrath brought exactly that to the runway: heavy dark shadow and dense eyeliner. It was perfect.
Maybe it’s a coincidence, maybe it’s nostalgia, maybe its the antithesis to A.I. perfection, but I have a feeling that dark, messy makeup and nightclub eyes will absolutely stick around. Expect eyeliner and eye makeup remover sales to increase, twofold.
Some of our favourite messy beauty looks this season, below:
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Pradalines Eye Pencil in Ember
Merit Solo Shadow in Midnight
Victoria Beckham Beauty Satin Kajal Liner in Black
Hermès Trai d’Hermès Lip Liner in Beige Thè
Images: @bellahadid, Hermès (supplied).
