Images: Ben Macmahon
There’s a gnarly old tree out the front that looks like it belongs in a spaghetti western. Tie your horse to the well, step inside, and you’ll find three of South Australia’s most cult wine labels pouring side by side.
Under the Sun Wine Collective is opening very soon in an old barn on Old Coach Road in Aldinga, bringing together Poppelvej, Brash Higgins and Golden Child Wines under one shared roof. It’s the kind of collaboration that makes immediate sense once you hear how it came about. Organically, slowly, built on friendship, and with a lot of trust.
“We have James from Golden Child to thank,” says Brash Higgins winemaker Brad Hickey. “He had been diligently looking for a space for years, and asked Uffe from Poppelvej and myself if we were keen to join forces. When the Old Coach Rd location opened up, James was Johnny-on-the-Spot and we grabbed it.”
Between them, the trio represent very different paths into wine. Uffe of Poppelvej is a former Danish wine buyer who moved to McLaren Vale and made his first Grenache in a garage. Brad Hickey, born in Chicago, worked his way through Paris, Portland and New York before landing in South Australia. James Hamilton of Golden Child honed his craft across Australia and California before launching his own label using fruit from his family’s Adelaide Hills vineyard.
What unites them is philosophy.
“We all are independent artisans that make wines that are from organic or low input vineyards and focus purity without chemicals,” says Hickey.
“Golden Child wines are bright and fresh, drinkability is writ large on them. Poppelvej is more of a texture freak and makes some dazzling aromatic whites and lighter, wilder reds. Brash covers a lot of ground, making authentic, site specific wines from amphora, and array of alternative, yet appropriate, grapes. All these wines have personality.”
That diversity is exactly the point, and the real joy of the new space is the range. Visitors can taste across all three labels or stick with one. There’ll be pét-nats, rosé, whites, orange wines and a generous spread of reds, making it an ideal stop for the curious or indecisive or anyone keen to build a mixed case rather than commit to a single style.
“You can tailor the experience to your liking,” says Hickey. “Taste across all 3 wineries offering, or only one if you like, hang with the winemaker or just grab a glass or pick up a bottle for dinner and split.”
There will also be cellar-door-only bottles, collaborations between the trio and other winemaking friends, and some deeper cellar treasures available for purchase. Importantly, the business model is shared.
“Under the Sun buys the wines from the winemakers, so we all share in the sale of each other’s wines,” Hickey explains. “It was a way to support each other without anyone becoming resentful if one label sold more than another.”
The space itself is designed for hanging around well beyond your first glass. Two older buildings – one the tasting room, the other a breezy older barn – share a roof, with a small courtyard out front pulling everything together.
“There’s a massive wine geology map of the Vale that’s a big feature,” says Hickey. “And we commissioned local mural artist Ella Simpson to paint this colourful landscape of the sun and coast – it’s very catchy, and it’ll become iconic for Under the Sun.”
Out front, two large pizza ovens anchor a small courtyard set back from the main road. To the side, a sizeable beer garden with big tables and a shaded lean-to stretches out under a towering gum tree. Inside and out, there are couches, nooks and corners designed for opening a bottle, sharing a cheese plate and losing track of time.
The fit-out has been a hands-on labour of love, built through community favours and a shared vision.
“We wanted it open, whitewashed, simple and bright,” says Hickey. “We didn’t have the capital for an architect or designer… we cashed in some major favours and dished out some wine swaps with excellent local tradies. The bar was made by Uffe’s father-in-law, Gary Macarthur, and his wife Nicole Deichmann, a ceramicist, made the crockery.”
Accessibility was also front of mind, with a widened entrance and large new window installed to ensure wheelchair access.
Aldinga, Hickey says, was an obvious choice.
“It’s just the cutest town. It’s bustling,” he says. “You’ve got Little Rickshaw, Fall From Grace, Kickback Brewery, Rustic Thai, Goodness Coffee, Maxwell’s — and the pub’s solid. We wanted to be in the middle of the action, not out in the sticks. And close to the beach.”
Under the Sun will operate as a cellar door by day, but Friday and Saturday evenings will see it shift gears.
“After five, we’ll stop tastings and turn into more of a wine bar,” says Hickey. “Pull some corks. How late we stay open depends on the vibe.”
Even the music is up for grabs.
“We all have different taste,” he laughs. “Could be Brian Jonestown Massacre, Velvet Underground, Fela Kuti — you never know.”
The barn space will eventually host private tastings, long lunches, trade events and wine education sessions. There’s already a pool table in place, getting a decent workout.
As for the opening date? “Any day now,” says Hickey. “We’re ready, just waiting on the final rubber stamp. There’ll be a few soft openings before we really go for it.”
Under the Sun aims to shine a light on a modern, different side of McLaren Vale wine. One that’s approachable, generous and meant to be enjoyed together. And in an old barn, under the South Australian sun, with charcuterie on the table and three best mates behind the bar, that feels like exactly the right setting.
Under the Sun Wine Collective
Where: 22 Old Coach Rd, Aldinga, South Australia
When: Coming very soon
For the website, click here.
@underthesunwine
