Genelia Deshmukh arrived at a Diwali party in Mumbai with a fresh perspective for festive dressing. Giving conventional lehengas, saris and kurta sets a rain check, the actor chose a three-piece ensemble from New Delhi-based label Divani by Sanya Dhir. The custom set fuses time-honoured Indian craftsmanship and the ease of contemporary separates. The look takes traditional embroidery beyond its expected festive and bridal settings into a more versatile context.
According to Dhir, the set from the label’s Heirloom Separates line reimagines occasion dressing as “individual pieces, each with a unique identity” to be mixed and matched. An ornate zardozi-embroidered bib elevated the black-and-white look. “The bib is at the heart of the set and is inspired by 17th-century waistcoats with adjustable tie-up detailing at the sides, which give the garment a corseted, armour-like construction,” she explains.
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Master artisans spent over 850 hours embroidering the bib—giving a peek into the labour-intensive craftsmanship behind the overlay. “It is rendered in Divani’s signature motichoor technique, one of the seven archival zardozi techniques that we are working towards restoring,” shares Dhir. She also shared the inspiration behind the bib—an heirloom sari from their archives. —which features fine metallic star-shaped motifs embroidered, resembling the tiny beads seen in a motichoor laddoo. The piece features several Mughal-era-inspired motifs made with other hand embroidery techniques like dapka, naqshi and khiccha in antique colour palettes. The bib is further embellished with semi-precious stones, which gives it a jewel-like finish. “The fringes are individually handcrafted by our women artisans using a single needle technique and meticulous hand-finishing,” Dhir elaborates. Deshmukh’s bib is layered over an ivory shirt and black cowl pants.
The actor, who has been veering towards eclectic accessories in her last few appearances, continued that streak. An ear cuff from QIS by Ashmeet; rings by Tangerine; bird-shaped earrings, hathphool and a quirky pomegranate-shaped bag from Amama were used to accessorise. Metallic heels by Shewak completed the ensemble.
Deshmukh’s beauty look featured smoky eyes and nude pink lipstick. Her face-framing bangs were on display while the rest of her hair was secured in a clean bun. While Deshmukh wore the look for Diwali, Dhir believes the bib’s appeal lies in how far it can travel beyond the festive calendar. “It does not need to be restricted to a particular occasion, silhouette or season. You could wear a zardozi bib over a crisp white shirt with denims; layer it over a beautiful peshwa for a more traditional expression; style it with a sari, or pair it with a bralette and a high-waisted skirt for an evening out. It is an investment that carries centuries of craftsmanship, something you can reinterpret today and perhaps pass down to the next generation tomorrow.”
