For Dior spring summer 2027, Jonathan Anderson made a case for lightness — using the technical possibilities of lace, silk mousseline, organza and fluid tailoring to make clothes that appeared almost weightless.
In his first year at the helm of the house, Anderson has already demonstrated his ability to take iconic codes and make them his own. This season, it was an exercise in loosening the structure of familiar shapes.
Tailoring, for one, was softened, with traditionally structured silhouettes rendered in sheer fabrics and delicate layers. Anderson’s debut collection for the house, for example, was dominated by bar jackets with dramatic peplum shapes, crafted from heavy fabrics. This time around, the designer began with a riff on the sheer suit jacket that opened his men’s show in June. It was a fitting alternative, given the show was once again staged in the Tuileries Gardens on an unseasonably warm day. Enhancing the sense of airiness was a gentle mist that floated at the base of the trees that had seemingly materialised around the runway, softly cocooning and shading the show.
That sense of movement extended into flower-like shapes and volumes, iridescent finishes and cropped silhouettes — ideas that first appeared in the house’s autumn winter 2026 collection — this time in lighter, more summery forms. Long scarves fell over one shoulder and cascaded down the body, while oversized earrings, made from winding beads and silk circles plaited together to resemble petals, brought another deliberately whimsical flourish.
But arguably the collection’s most unexpected accessory was a silver-finish minaudière shaped like a wénwán walnut. The bag referenced the pair of hand-rolled walnuts sent to guests as the show’s invitation, a nod to the longstanding Chinese practice of rolling and handling these intricately shaped nuts in the palm of the hand (traditionally, the repeated motion gradually smooths and polishes the walnuts).
From there, the accessories returned to the collection’s more recognisable Dior codes, albeit with the same sense of play. New versions of the Dior Double and Dior Initial Hobo appeared alongside compact bags in supple leather, while a new biker-inspired style featured zipped pocket flaps, Cannage stitching and metal D-I-O-R hardware. At the other end of the spectrum, playful mesh bags could be customised with fringed silk scarves or clusters of sheer georgette petals, directly echoing the floral forms and translucent fabrics of the clothes. The shoes continued the botanical theme, with photographs of flowers printed across square-toe block heels, a new iteration of the Dior Bow Sandal and the Dior Cigale, which featured a petal-shaped sole.
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