Roach had a particularly biting observation about what replaced the old system: “Criticism has become the new way to build community.”
That one stopped me. Entire online communities are now built around shared dislike: a celebrity, a designer, a stylist, a trend, a nepo baby, a red-carpet look. The algorithm, which has never been accused of encouraging nuance, rewards outrage. The meaner the take, the more engagement it gets. Traditional fashion media may have backed away from harsh sartorial criticism, but the internet certainly hasn’t. In fact, it’s much better at it. (And by better, I mean worse.)
Which is another reason Roach isn’t feeling a worst dressed list. The internet democratized fashion criticism, but it didn’t democratize expertise. He believes unpopular opinions should exist—they should just come from people who know what they’re talking about. “These lists and these things should be curated by people who actually have some insight in the industry,” Roach said. “People who have proven that they have some sense of taste and some credibility.”
Of course, insiders have their own problem: They want to remain insiders. “You need people to do these lists [who are] not trying to get invited to the fashion show,” Roach said. Touché! The influencer wants the invitation. The editor needs access. The stylist needs the dress. The celebrity has the contract. The magazine wants the celebrity. The fashion house needs everybody. And suddenly—miraculously!—everyone looks fabulous.
The worst dressed list didn’t disappear. It metastasized.
Which brings us back to those participation trophies. “I don’t think that everybody should get a medal for showing up,” Roach said. He remembers when a Vogue best dressed roundup after an event might include 10 people. “Now if 85 people are at the event, all 85 people are on the list. I’m like, ‘When did we get to that point?’”
Let’s be clear: I’m not campaigning for a return to an era when women were body-shamed or publicly humiliated for choosing the wrong evening gown. The old worst dressed lists could be cruel, sexist, culturally ignorant, and spectacularly misguided. Not to mention, many of yesterday’s supposed disasters are today’s landmarks. Björk’s swan dress? Celine Dion’s backwards Dior tuxedo? Fashion history has a funny way of vindicating the people brave enough to look ridiculous.
