For an ingredient so heavily championed by the beauty industry and backed by more than five decades of clinical research, retinol remains surprisingly polarising. That’s where retinol alternatives come in. I often find myself confessing to dermatologists in a hushed tone that it doesn’t feature in my skincare routine, but I’m usually met with the same reassuring response: I’m not alone.
“Retinoids are not suitable for everyone,” says Dr Susan Mayou, consultant dermatologist at the Cadogan Clinic. “The shift from retinol is being driven by factors such as the skin barrier health and sensitivity concerns. Many patients are now over-exfoliated or have compromised skin barriers due to complex routines.” This coincides with the K-beauty revolution that has brought skin-loving and gentle practices to Western beauty routines. Dr Mayou charts this influence and the transformation towards Korean skincare philosophies, “which prioritise hydration, repair and low-irritation actives.” It can also be due to the time of year, according to dermatologist Dr Ophelia Veraitch: “As we head into the summer months, some patients choose to reduce or temporarily pause retinoids due to increased sun exposure and the potential for heightened sensitivity.” However, she notes, “with appropriate SPF use, they can still be used safely year-round under guidance.”
The experts above explain that there are ingredients that can do a similar job to retinol, namely sun care, azelaic acid, vitamin C, tretinoin, niacinamide, tranexamic acid, peptides and bakuchiol. “Daily SPF remains the most effective intervention for preventing premature skin ageing, while antioxidants such as vitamins C and E help protect against oxidative damage and support overall skin health,” says Dr Veraitch who also spotlight tretinoin, which she reveals “has decades of research behind it and remains the gold standard topical ingredient for improving fine lines, uneven pigmentation and skin texture.” Although Dr Mayou adds that “alternatives can achieve visible improvements, but the outcomes tend to be gentler, slower and less structurally transformative” as, she tells me while the alternatives “can improve acne, pigmentation, radiance and early fine lines, particularly in sensitive skin types, retinoids remain unique in their ability to directly influence gene expression and collagen remodelling in the dermis.”
Below, the experts break down the different retinol alternatives, while we share our favourite serums and creams starring said ingredients. Scroll on for beautiful skin.
SPF
Prevention is always better than cure and that is why daily sun care is essential. “When discussing evidence-backed ingredients, the most important product is actually a daily broad-spectrum SPF,” says Dr Veraitch. “The vast majority of visible skin ageing is driven by UV exposure, so consistent sun protection remains the cornerstone of any effective skincare routine.”
