Long before bandhani made its way into modern wardrobes, it belonged in a world of rituals and rich symbolism. The twist-tie-dye technique seems simple enough, but the results are anything but. An unmistakable sight across Rajasthan and Gujarat, the fabric speaks through colour. Red, worn by brides, is the most auspicious of all, symbolising good fortune and fertility. Yellow marks new beginnings and was traditionally worn to celebrate childbirth. The gharchola, distinguished by its grid pattern, zari weave and signature red and green, remains a non-negotiable piece in many Gujarati bridal trousseaus.
For much of its history, bandhani rarely moved beyond occasionwear. It was brought out for weddings and festivals, before returning to cupboards and trousseau trunks between occasions. Over the last decade, though, that has begun to change. Part of that shift has come from the way designers have approached the textile itself, reimagining it on oversized shirts, dresses, kaftans and co-ord sets, rather than treating it as occasionwear alone.
Last year, NorBlack NorWhite extended bandhani into activewear through its Nike collaboration, placing the textile across everything from sneakers to athletic separates. Abraham & Thakore, meanwhile, has approached bandhani through its signature minimalistic aesthetic, translating it into everyday dresses, tunics and jackets. Péro has incorporated bandhani into layered separates that focus on craftsmanship, while labels like Dyelogue have focused on breezy, contemporary silhouettes that make the craft feel more accessible.
