There are few debuts more freighted with expectation than a first haute couture collection at Chanel. But for his inaugural outing as a couturier, Matthieu Blazy appeared unburdened by that weight, approaching the Spring Summer 2026 collection with a focus on lightness.
Staged, as always, within the Grand Palais, Blazy’s debut haute couture show unfolded within a landscape of pale pink carpeting and towering toadstools — an ethereally surreal setting that signalled a departure from heaviness, both literally and symbolically.
The show opened with Blazy’s take on a classic Chanel suit. Rendered in sheer silk mousseline in gentle beige tones, the House’s most iconic silhouette was stripped back to its essential architecture. Fine chains and pearls anchored the hemlines, while there was a noticeable absent of classic Chanel codes like tweed and camellias. This sense of transparency formed a through-line for the collection, as Blazy played with the idea of interior life made visible. Love letters, embroidered notes, bottles of N°5 and flashes of red lipstick appeared as trompe-l’oeil motifs or jewellery-like details — tucked into pockets, stitched into linings, or suspended from chains. Even handbags were rendered in silk, leaving them slightly see-through, their contents on show.
Birds were a recurring metaphor, guiding the collection. Gradually, the models seemed to undergo a metamorphosis, their silhouettes echoing feathers, wings, and flight. From raven-black looks defined by ruffled sleeves and collars, to iridescent embroideries and pleated constructions that suggested feathers without actually employing them, Blazy employed the bird as a symbol of freedom — always in motion, never fixed in place. Movement and fabrication reinforced this idea, with Blazy designing for a woman in constant motion, unencumbered by structure. Silhouettes remained fluid, softened by trailing chiffon sleeves and layers that appeared to float around the body.
Moments of whimsy also punctuated the show. Psychedelic embroideries mirrored the surreal forest setting, while a trompe-l’oeil tank top and jeans in organza nodded subtly to Blazy’s previous work at Bottega Veneta. A standout red evening gown crowned with a cocoon-like texture offered a playful, couture-level take on the mushroom motif — fantasy grounded firmly in craftsmanship.
And, as has now become a hallmark of Blazy’s Chanel, there was a genuine sense of joy and collaboration on the runway. Models were invited to select personal symbols and messages to be integrated into their garments, reinforcing the idea that these clothes only truly come alive when worn.
